Birthday celebration 2017 – needed a place on the Eastside that had inventive food, something more interesting. Jason Wilson’s Lake House of farmhouse inspired craft cooking in the middle of downtown Bellevue seemed to offer just that. It’s an airy, white-walled, spacious temple for locavores humming with the energy of shoppers newly energized by some retail therapy.
housemade sarde shell pasta – foraged mushrooms, soft cooked egg, green garlic pesto. This is my favorite dish at The Lake House hands down. It’s an al-dente pasta, lovingly wrapped in clingy egg yolk with pesto and I swear a hint of truffle. Just pop these in your mouth, one at a time, and savor the chew, the silkiness, and the richness of this dish. Like carbonara moved up north in Italy.
honey nut cheesecake – with house fennel seed granola and raspberry sorbet. That’s a squash cheesecake that tastes kind of like sweet potato, but a little more stringy and not nearly as sweet. The granola is addicting and the sorbet is a punch of tart flavor to mix things up. It oddly works?
braised beef short rib cappelletti – baby beets, watercress, black truffle truffle sauce, fresh horseradish. Precious squid ink tinted with truffle oil topping delicate pillows of cappelletti. It’s a bit of the ocean mixed with a bit of the farm, and if I could, I’d lick the sauce out of the bowl. Beets and watercress for balance to cut the richness of the dish.
grilled niman ranch pork chop – quince, brussels sprouts, baby turnips, anson mills white cheddar grits. Look at the color on the pork chop – see how tender and juicy it looks? That’s how pork chops should be done! The grits give it a bit of a southern flare.
mad hatcher farms chicken in three preparations – mashed yukon potatoes, crispy brussels sprouts, fermented fresno chile hot sauce, chicken gravy, smoked blue cheese aioli. Fried chicken – nothing fancy here in terms of spices, but it’s juicy and tender. Those hot wings – they are extremely spicy! Grilled pesto chicken seems positively boring compared to the rest of the plate, but it’s the healthy meat to take home for lunch tomorrow. Mashed potatoes – they tended to pool with oil, but they are so smooth and truffled, which makes up for all sorts of sins in my book. Brussel sprouts – yay, veggies! Roasted the way you would want them to be and a good balance for all the strong flavors in this sharing platter. It’s probably enough food for 3 people.
curry roasted cauliflower – curry spice, green apple, herb hummus, preserved lemon, kale pesto. The cauliflower itself could have used just a little more roasting for a bit more char, but one really just cares about the combination of curry, apples, and pesto. It’s a party of flavors that have great chemistry!
grilled octopus – with chorizo aioli, green chickpeas, fennel, castelvetrano olive. Nice char, but I didn’t taste much chorizo in the aioli. Amazingly fresh chickpeas for a nice bright spring flavor in the middle of winter and a perfectly cooked tendril that wasn’t too chewy or too mushy.
We ordered way to much food for the five of us. That chicken for two should have been chicken for three, but there’s nothing wrong with left overs. Our server was attentive, made sure that we always had full water glasses and knew the menu and its ingredients pretty well. The dishes are on the pricey end though, ranging from $32 to $59 for the large plates, but I guess that’s expected with rents for this premium location and locally sourced ingredients. It’s a chef driven restaurant as they call it. And there are quite a few things on the menu that make me scratch my head and ponder what they might taste like. The dishes are balanced. The dishes are unique. My favorite however, is probably the most boring of them all – the housemade pesto pasta with mushrooms. Maybe there’s something in its simplicity that makes it stand out when everything else feels like it’s trying too hard to be different. My second favorite was the honeynut cheesecake. I had a hell of a time trying to figure out what honey nut was, as it certainly didn’t taste like honey or nuts but I wanted to keep tasting it.
Overall, I liked Lake House as I’ve always been a Jason Wilson fan, mostly from Miller’s Guild where they use lard for butter and drown their potatoes in truffle oil. You can see the resemblance. I also dined at Crush back in the day – and though it was one of my first few fine dining experiences, I sadly, don’t remember much from it, other than who I dined with and where the restaurant is located. That’s where he won his James Beard Award. Lake House is definitely worth trying, at the very least to see what over the top combinations the kitchen has been up to.
SUMMARY
Overall: happily ever after
Highlights: housemade pesto pasta with mushrooms and honeynut squash cheesecake
Footnotes: Entrees range from $39 – $52; there are larger entrees meant to be shared – the addition of the grilled swordfish bouillabaisse is intriguing; located conveniently in Lincoln Center 2 across from Nordstrom Rack
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