Once In a Lifetime – The French Laundry

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There are some restaurants that are legendary, impossible to get seats for, and renown as the best meal ever eaten – Thomas Keller’s French Laundry is one of these fabled establishments. I went here for my 35th birthday, to check off one of my items on my bucket list and to celebrate with Kipnik and Noblesse D’Coeur. I’ve cooked from multiple Thomas Keller cookbooks and absolutely adore Bouchon and Bouchon Bakery, so it was an absolute dream come true to be able to sit down at a table at the apex of his restaurants, especially on my birthday!  It was more a whim to see if we could pull off this nearly impossible feat, and the fates conspired to make it happen for us.

Making reservations was no easy task either. Kipnik and I started calling at 10am using two lines each to try to get through their system.  If get the menu system, press the button to make reservations and hear a busy tone, hang up immediately and dial again until you get hold music. Then stay on hold for the next 20 minutes and drop everything until speak to person and take whatever slots they have for reservations. There are 74 seats available per night, and everyone will start calling at 10am, so be patient and keep trying. We managed to get a 5:30 reservation, one of the first table seatings for Saturday.

The French Laundry - salmon tartare

salmon tartare – with green onion crème fraiche in a cone; the amuse bouche, their version of lox and cream cheese to whet the palette with a bit of savory – the creaminess of the crème fraiche paired with the crunch of the cone offset the buttery texture of the salmon nicely

The French Laundry - gougeres

gougeres – traditionally stuffed with gruyere cheese, but these were much runnier than normal gruyere, they had almost a cream inside of them that I might be able to distinguish if I had more than two bites of it to figure out, but these gougeres will be the gougeres you compare all gougeres against in your lifetime

The French Laundry - oysters and pearls

Oysters and Pearls – “sabayon” of pearl tapioca with Island Creek oysters and white sturgeon caviar.
This is their signature dish that never changes on the menu and I can see why. It’s playful with bubbles of tapioca, caviar, and a bauble of poached oyster. The brininess of the caviar combines smoothly with the creamy sabayon and you never know if if’s tapioca or caviar that’s exploding in your mouth, but the crown jewel here are the two oysters – sweet and not chewy at all; I had eaten both of mine and neglected to share one of them with Noblesse D’Couer, which is uncommon for me

The French Launch - Royal Ossetra Caviar

Royal Ossetra Caviar – with Maine lobster en gelee, garden dill bavarois, and oyster crackers. (+$60)
Noblesse D’Coeur ordered the supplement so we could try everything on the menu, and you can taste the difference between the two types of caviar when you have them side by side. The Royal Ossetra is a little more mellow with larger beads. Tucked inside were small chunks of lobster making it an extremely decadent dish. Despite such bold flavors, none of them overwhelmed the other. If you’re a caviar fan, this is a must splurge.

The French Laundry - butter and salts

Only at the French Laundry would I have to take a picture of the salt and butter. There were 6 salts of varying textures and salinity: Hawaiian clay salt, Hawaiian lava salt, fleur de sel, a salt from Montana, and two others I don’t remember. As for the butters, the circular disc is salted from Vermont and some of the finest butter you’ll taste and the egg shaped one is local from Petaluma, which is lighter and cleaner in flavor. Kipnik is a butter connoisseur – we were trying to figure out how to take the butter home with us…

The French Laundry - duck foie gras terrine

duck foie gras terrine – with preserved green strawberries, pistachio pain de genes, garden nasturtiums, and young fennel gastrique (+$30).
You do not go to French restaurant without trying their foie gras, and for a foie gras nut like me, $30 is a normal price for a foie gras, though I prefer it seared rather than in a terrine form. They brought us a hot brioche to spread the terrine on, along with the salt and butter, but who wants to spread salt and butter on a brioche when it could be smothered with foie gras? Foie is interesting because if you don’t balance it correctly, it can become too rich, but they found a way to combine all these flavors without using a purely tart or sweet item, leaning heavily on the preserved strawberries and tangy fennel gastrique to do most of the legwork. The nasturtium would have been the bitter crunch this dish is normally paired with, but the leaflets of nasturtiums barely made an impact on this dish. The balance was subtle, but it was still there. The pistachio crust around the foie gras was also notable too, as it took a while to figure out the flavors, but it is certainly a compliment to the richness of foie rather than a contrast. The best part perhaps, was when another piping hot brioche magically appeared on my plate just as I was wishing that I had more bread to go with my terrine. Thoughts read, brioche magically delivered. So amazing!

The French Laundry - broccoli salad

broccoli salad – with Hawaiian hearts of peach palm, toasted marcona almonds, crispy chickpea panisse, and sauce romesco.
This is hardly what I’d call a salad, and it definitely wasn’t a broccoli salad, as there are only two florets of broccoli in it, but this is what you get if you don’t order the foie gras. Not quite as exciting, but a nice palate cleanser with plenty of crunch from the nuts, peas, and palm hearts.

The French Laundry - Rouget

Rouget en ecailles de pommes terre – fork crushed La Ratte potatoes, Spanish capers, globe artichokes, and crème de cresson
This was another wonderfully playful dish from the kitchen. The potatoes were thinly sliced, fried, and layered on the rouget to simulate the fish skin without any of the unpleasant inedible scales, but with all the crispness that a fish skin should have. Kipnik thought it tasted like the sea, and the brininess of the fish was enhanced by the salinity of the fried potatoes, but the fish itself didn’t taste “fishy”. The watercress also contributed to the brininess of the fish by adding a bit of umami.

The FrenchLaundry - sea scallop boudin

Stonington Maine sea scallop boudin – pearl barley, garden celery, arrowleaf spinach, and double mushroom bouillon
That perfect little round package has the sweetest scallop that I’ve ever eaten inside of it. Normal restaurants wrap scallops in bacon, but that overwhelms the delicate flavor of a scallop, so The French Laundry wraps it spinach so that a subtle taste of the garden lingers behind. Add in umami flavors from the mushroom broth and you have a bit of the sea and earth complimented in a dish without making surf and turf.

The French Laundry - tete de cochon

Rouelle de tete de cochon – servi avec lentilles au vin rouge
Roughly translated, pig’s head with lentils in red wine. Of course if you wrote that on the menu, most people would automatically choose quail. This makes it more like sweetbreads – the people who don’t know better, don’t know what they’re eating, which is just fine, because it’s still delicious. It tastes like the most flavorful sausage in a delicate pastry shell, though the red wine sauce was a little bit on the salty side and you needed to balance the two appropriately.

The French Laundry - quail

Wolfe Ranch White Quail – creamed fava beans, cherry belle radishes, roasted pine nuts, and Holland white asparagus veloute
This is probably the largest piece of quail I’ve seen, and it’s sitting in the best tasting asparagus that I’ve had. Both quail and asparagus are rather bold flavors, so they compliment each other quite nicely, especially with the cream to blend the two flavors. Add in the fava beans and pine nuts to balance out the dish from being too creamy.

The French Laundry - waygu

Charcoal grilled Japanese Waygu – green asparagus remoulad, tomato confit, wild miners lettuce, and salade béarnaise
Noblesse D’Coeur is a steak guy, and if you’re going to the French Laundry for a once in a lifetime meal, then you might as well get the once in a lifetime Waygu supplement (+$100). I didn’t quite get the full effect of this dish as I only had a small bite of the steak as it was only 4 ounces, but I can say that it melts in your mouth with an unparalleled sweetness while still retaining a distinct beef flavor without tasting fatty.

The French Laundry - lamb chop

Slow roasted Elysian Fields Farm lamb – preserved green tomato relish, marinated Persian cucumbers, garden turnips, and white grain mustard jus.
I love lamb chops, and would choose lamb chops over a steak most any day, so I was quite happy that this was the meat entrée of the night. That little lamp chop has no hint of lambiness and had a thinly crisped crust that melded beautifully with the jus. The adorable little salad was there to prevent the dish from being too heavy and added a nice crunch and contrast to the meat. The mustard helped bridge the two items together. Both Kipnik and I had to resist the urge to pick up the bone and gnaw on it to get every little bit of meat off the bone. Any other day, we probably would have, but there were too many people and wait staff to be able to get away with doing it surreptitiously.

The French Laundry - Contralto

Andante Dairy Contralto – cauliflower barbajuan, Hadley Orchards medjool dates, and sweet curry-carrot puree.
This is actually a local goat cheese, that I didn’t recognize as a goat cheese, though it did have a bit of a tang to it. It’s creamy and semi-soft and paired well with the date and curry-carrot puree. They gave us a piece of coriander seed bread to go with it, which was wonderful since the coriander stood up well to the cheese. The most confusing thing on this dish was that cute little barbajuan, which is a cute little cauliflower shaped pastry stuffed with cauliflower and cheese. It was warm and sadly, didn’t seem like it belonged on a cheese plate, but it went well with the carrot-curry paste.

The French Laundry - banana creme fraiche

banana crème fraiche – I have no idea what else is in this dish, but I remember it being a tart remoulade of some sort as crème fraiche needs something to spice it up. I’m guessing it was strawberry and a shortbread cookie. This is one of many desserts and they call came at once, so I forgot what was in it in my excitement to see so many dessert courses!

The French Laundry - rhubarb over merginue

rhubarb over meringue – with candied ginger. A nice light palate cleanser that helped with the digestion of all the food we had eaten previously. The meringue provided all the sweetness and it was nice to see a seasonal vegetable highlighted for dessert.

The French Laundy - birthday cake

Birthday cake – chocolate ganche, meringue, and cake with chocolate ice cream on top
This is probably the best birthday cake that I’ve ever had. The slight crunch from the meringue, with the chocolaty ganache, and fluffy cake was so amazing to bite into, that we were all completely blown away. The brought out a whole cake to me and then took it away after I had blown out the candle to cut it an serve it. I’m pretty sure this was only half the cake, and I wish I had been able to take the other half home, but this was undoubtedly my favorite dessert. Thomas Keller knows his pastries, obviously.

The French Laundry - pistachio macarons

pistachio macarons – baby macarons, colored to look like spring.
We were so full of dessert, Kipnik and I opted to pack ours up to go home with us as we knew they would keep. Sadly, they got lost and never made it to our to-go baggy. Noblesse D’Coeur ate his as he was determined to eat all the things on the table before leaving, and he said it was quite tasty. We’ll have to take his word for it, but I’ve had Bouchon’s macarons, and they usually pretty good.

The French Laundry - chocolate covered almonds

chocolate covered almonds – well, at least that’s what Noblesse D’Coeur said they were. At least something nutty, and most reviews have said they were almonds. Again, Kipnik and I opted to pack these to go, but they got lost somewhere in the kitchen. Sad face!

The French Laundry - donuts

donuts – they were served with the “coffee”. Piping hot, fluffy donuts – I wish I could have these for breakfast when I was less full. They were amazing for just a small mouthful.

The French Laundry - cappuccino semi-freddo

cappuccino semi-freddo – part of the signature coffee and donuts dessert; don’t try drinking this like Kipnik did. It was like a slightly more liquidly and foamy pudding, think airy pudding, though I think semi-freddo is technically closer to ice cream. It tasted just like coffee, and was perhaps overkill next to the real cappuccinos we ordered.

The service was impeccable. The water glasses never went empty and they always waited until the last person cleaned off their plate before clearing the dishes. Everyone was knowledgeable about the dishes when we asked for further explanation. They also knew it was my birthday and had printed Happy Birthday on our menus in additional to baking a birthday cake.

We were also hoping to do a wine pairing, as that is fairly standard for a pris fixe menu, but not at the French Laundry. They only had glasses of wine that the sommelier could recommend would go well with each dish, and really, what we needed was one glass of wine to go with each dish that the three of us could share. While our server had discussions about the first pairings that we ordered, he forgot about the 3rd one and once we asked about it, he insisted this one was on the house and came back with a lovely white wine. Afterwards, he made sure we had something to go with each dish, which worked out perfectly as we wouldn’t have really an objection to anything he recommended anyway.

While we were paying the bill, Kipnik noticed an extra line for a donation and asked the house manager about it. He said it was a program for training chefs led by Thomas Keller to compete in a competition in France. Apparently, the US had never come in above 10th place before Thomas Keller took over the program, and now they’ve had chefs come in 6th and 2nd place. They train in the French Laundry kitchen, which he offered to show us. We thought he was off-handedly offering, but as we waiting for our jackets, he came back and found us. He showed us the shell of the new kitchen, talked about the high ceilings, how it was inspired by Thomas Keller’s trip to the Louvre, and that they were going to white and getting rid of all the stainless steel because it was too heavy. It’s coming along quite nicely and is a much larger space than what the chefs had been cooking in. They were temporarily cooking out of 4 containers, with the inside set up exactly like the previous kitchen so they wouldn’t miss a beat during the renovations. As he was talking about the renovations, he showed the concepts of the new kitchen and even the tile that would soon be delivered. We found ourselves at the entrance of the real kitchen, with servers bustling in and out with dishes, and then he led us into the kitchen.  WE WERE IN THE KITCHEN OF THE FRENCH LAUNDRY during service hours!!!  We couldn’t believe it, the 4 of us, blocking half of the entrance with service coming to grinding halt just so we could take a look around. The house manager showed us the screen where the lone Per Se chef was cleaning up the kitchen, as it was midnight in New York. He said that would eventually wave if you kept waving at them, and we tried for a while, and eventually, the lone sous chef, did wave back at us.  I might have *squeed* at that point.  The kitchen is immaculate, considering that they were in the middle of dinner service, and the entire staff just stopped and smiled for a while as the manager talked a bit about operations. Then he told us to stand next to the plating counter where the chef was checking all the dishes before they went to the diners. Again, here we were, taking up space in their kitchen and halting operations. The blogs say that you can request a kitchen tour ahead of time, but they offered it to us, which made it all the more special in my mind. They went above and beyond without our request, and this is why it was the highlight of our dinner.

The question everyone asks is, was it worth it? It’s a once in a lifetime and a 3-star Michelin restaurant, of course it’s worth it! Would I do it again, yes, if the opportunity arose! If you asked me to choose between Alinea or French Laundry, I might have to say foodwise, Alinea.  They take more chances there and it’s about the experience of interacting with your food, though their service is not what I would consider gracious. Maybe it was the potato cheese grenade or the truffle explosion that are right up my alley that made some of those dishes at Alinea unforgettable. The French Laundry, on the other hand, knew how to highlight the ingredients and did a spectacular job of making the night memorable. And handsdown, The French Laundry had much better dessert, and I think that’s what’ll stay with me. Kipnik might remember the oysters and pearls, and Noblesse D’Coeur will probably remember the waygu.

Whatever memories we take away from a dinner at The French Laundry, I was so lucky to be able to celebrate my birthday (my actual birthday!) there with my favorite foodies. I checked off a bucket list item, and I had such wonderful people to share it with me. Because no matter how amazing The French Laundry was, it would not have been nearly as good if I had not had Kipnik and Noblesse D’Coeur at the table and in the kitchen with me. Thanks guys for an epic birthday and thank you to the French Laundry team for making it special!

SUMMARY
Overall: happily ever after
Highlights: lamb, waygu, dessert (all of it)
Footnotes: guys must wear a jacket; I’ve also seen reviews that say all non-alcoholic drinks are included in the price, service is also included; they sell out every night, so you MUST call at 10am PT to get a reservation

 

The French Laundry Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato