They call a new type of dining experience, sitting around a communal table in a tiny restaurant that seats only 24 people, served prix-fixe style, but really, it’s more like sitting down a table at home with family, except mom is a gourmet chef with a penchant for charcuterie and formage blanc. Welcome to the belly of Beast, where the dishes are playful and the service est compris (tip is included, European style). There are six dishes, with optional wine pairing, and it’s a journey from beginning to end.
scallop crudo – with apple relish and dill and beet chips; this dish was perfectly balance for the delicateness of the scallop with the tang of the crispy apples and the crunchy earthiness of the beet chips; the beet chips surprised me the most, adding a subtle harmony to bring fruit and sea together. Even our resident non-sashimi eater enjoyed this dish and it was wonderfully executed.
charcuterie:
STEAK TARTARE – with the requisite quail egg, a nice bite, thoroughly enjoyed
CHICKEN LIVER MOUSSE – on a lard crackers, that was a first, but think savory shortbread, creamy and full bodied
FOIE GRAS BON-BON with SAUTERNES GELÉE – a wine gelee with a bold fois gras is an interesting choice as the gelee is neither sweet or tangy, which is usually used to enhance the flavor of the fois – rather it was combined with peanut as the salt which brought out the liver flavor of the foie; I think that maybe less gelee was in order because the bitterness of the alcohol does not serve the foie well
VEAL LOIN CARPACCIO – nearly lost the flavor on this between all the other charcuterie, but delightful nonetheless
WEISSWURST SAUSAGE & SAUERKRAUT – strange to find a sausage at a fine dining establishment; it certainly stood out in flavor on the dish in its puff of mustard
LAN-ROC PORK SHOULDER RILLETTES – fried into a croquette, a steroided cousin to the sausage
Overall this dish had a couple of tasty morsels on it, but it lacked cohesion other than a plate of fanciful charcuterie; the flavors didn’t meld or contrast, but it was fun
persimmon clementine sorbet – I love palette cleansers, and I love persimmon; sadly, my fellow diner said it tasted like an orange Julius, which I kind of agree with, but minus the powdery flavor… The persimmon was utterly lost and it became creamsicle.
petit sale – a BBQed pork short rib with pork loin underneath; served with lentils and carrots, this traditional dish had the addition of sauce verde which was a tarragon pesto that gave it a fresh grass flavor that made it feel like the pork had just come from the farm
watercress salad – with radishes, grapefruit, pistachios, and formage blanc; a very loud symphony of flavors – the formage blanc was the loudest though; they served this salad toward the end as a teaser for the cheese plate
cheese plate: two semi-soft cheeses and a blue, served with a shortbread among other things? they like to mix things up!
speculoos tart – with cranberry sorbet; this is the holiday in a non-traditional tart; custard filling with something akin to gingerbread crust and topped with a tart cranberry sorbet; a nice change of pace after two cheese dishes
It’s not often you get to sit down to a large table of companions for hours on end, winding your way through bites of fancy and flavor. For $102, or an additional $48 for the wine pairing, it’s completely reasonable for the high quality ingredients used and the attention paid to each dish. We wandered from sea to tree, hills to farm on an adventure, never really knowing what to expect or where we were going. In a casual, familiar setting, it seemed fitting to encounter whimsy while staying grounded with familiar ingredients.
Overall, I enjoyed dinner, was enraptured by a couple of standout dishes and it was definitely worth it. A trip to Portland just for dinner might seem extreme, but I believe strongly in experiences and this is one worth the trip for.
SUMMARY
Overall: happily ever after
Highlights: scallops, buttermilk specaloos tart
Footnotes: you will get to know your fellow diners after a few hours, this is not for vegetarians nor is it vegetarian friendly, the menu changes weekly so there’ll be something different when you visit
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