Salumi and I chose Hommage because much ado and hype has surrounded this replacement for the lovely Book Bindery. My fondest memory of Hommage was our introduction to the hanger steak – a marvelous cut of meat few restaurants serve. In its place, the owners had hoped to build something more accessible, but make no mistake – this is still a foodie stomping ground. The open bar in the middle of the restaurant serving intriguing cocktails, the white of the room make the restaurant more trendy and youthful, but it is no less ambitious when it comes to food.
foie gras torchon – rich, mixed with pistachios and dabbed with pomegranate syrup, it had all the trappings a foie gras dish should, in the right proportions, though it probably could have used another slice of brioche. 🙂
smoked salmon – perched on top of a nest of shredded phyllo dough ensconcing a pouched egg in a puddle of vodka crème fraiche; when you break the nest open, rich yolk runs out mingling with the crispy noodles and enhancing the brininess of the salmon; you MUST try this dish to understand the play of textures that elevate this far beyond the lox and cream cheese on a bagel that it pays homage to
roasted carrots – sweet and steeped in rich rabbit jus, with shavings of cheese and hay crackers for dipping; this is not a vegetarian dish and the broth was so delicious that it needed to be soaked up with baguette; and while hay crackers sound interesting they are not my cup of tea, like pliable crackers made from rye with lots of fiber; kudos to the assistant wait staff who heard me talk about bread for dipping and graciously brought us a few slices without us even asking for it
duck breast – with blood orange and duck jus; a new take on canard a l’orange, so juicy and tender throughout, it is probably one of the best duck breasts I’ve had in recent memory
black trumpet mushrooms – with goat cheese panna cotta, a little salty and one dimensional, it needed something stronger than goat cheese and mache to bring balance to this dish
ananas – grilled pineapple with coconut meringue and rum granite, topped with puff pastry, the chef’s rendition of a pina colada as dessert; the pineapple was a little limp, but provided plenty of tartness to counteract the cloying sweetness of the coconut meringue (which was closer to nougat, or uncooked marshmallow as it was sticky and not the least bit fluffy, and there was too much of it), with a bright freshness from the granita; we liked the puff pastry, but had a hard time getting all elements into a single bite for full effect
Overall, we really like Hommage with its refined and inventive cuisine. The textures and flavors paired very nicely, and though there aren’t going to be ingredients on the menu that you don’t recognize, they certainly know how to create masterful dishes. Again, this is a foodie restaurant and they’re just getting started. Service is incredibly friendly with the staff well versed on the menu – their attention to detail and service is thoughtful.
SUMMARY
Overall: happily ever after
Highlights: smoked salmon, duck breast
Footnotes: there is a secret prix fix menu that can be ordered ahead of time between $65 -$85 per person that must be shared by the entire table – this is definitely a restaurant where you’re in good hands with the chef; the restaurant has no signage and it’s tucked away in the corner of Nickerson, so expect to drive past it a few times as it’s part of an office complex; it is French, and therefore closed on Mondays (and Sundays)
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